What is PLA maximum printing temperature? Sometimes, printing at 60mm/sec (especialy on first layer, which is 200% fill), I hear cracks from my feeder. It looks like it trying to force plastic into extruder, but it is too tight and springs back. It can be cured either lowering printing speed or increading extruder temperature. I googled temperature for PLA, and it said it should be 180-220C (220 for high speed). But in my device this “cracks” stops whan temperature is 230C. So, it is safe for device to print PLA at such temps? Is there any other risks? Thank you in adcance.
What is PLA maximum printing temperature? Sometimes, printing at 60mm/sec (especialy on first layer,
It really depends on the brand plastic you are using. Some PLA prints awesome at 180c and some needs low to mid 200’s. I have one roll of PLA that cannot print anyrhing under 210c and others that have problems at that temperature. 230 is getting into ABS territory though. Is it a well known brand of PLA?
The problem with PLA is that because it is a sugar-based plastic, (most is corn based I believe) the sugar can start to crystallize at certain temp which could create jamming.
Try lubricant. Seriously - I was having all kinds of trouble with my extruder jamming, and they all went away as soon as I put a little in-line oiler (little 1cm^3 box with some foam inside) on it. I put a drop of oil in every now and then, and even the most finicky filament runs through just fine.
When doing prints that are over 80 mms I print at 245. I know that if you print it fast at high temps tires it is not really a problem. The one big problem is cooling pla fast enough. I have to have a big radial part fan to cool it so fast. I also would only suggest doing this with a high quality hotels. Like an e3d v6 at least.
You shouldn’t have to print PLA that hot. There’s too much restriction or friction somewhere. Make sure the filament feeds easily into your extruder without a lot of drag from the spool.
Is your extruder direct drive or bowden? If bowden, the tube might be bent at too tight a radius, or it could be constricted by the fittings at either end, or the entry hole might not be well-aligned with the exit from your filament drive gear. Your filament diameter might vary too much, causing it to stick in the tube.
Have you tried cleaning your nozzle, either with cleaning filament or just by doing cold pulls with a light-colored filament until they come out clean? You might have crusty bits that are blocking extrusion. Or the cold side of your hot end might have insufficient cooling, causing heat to creep up and make the filament sticky before it gets to the nozzle.
If you’re using a J-head with a PTFE liner, I’ve also seen poor assembly leave a gap between the PTFE liner and the nozzle. When molten, pressurized plastic flows into that gap, it cools a bit and gets sticky, increasing friction.
Since I fixed that last problem on my bowden system, I’ve been able to print a variety of PLA at 70mm/s and 200-210C without jamming.
I generally print PLA at 185C for 40mm/s feedrate. I increase the temperature by 5C for each 10mm/s increase in feedrate. For a hotend temperature of 205C I can print at 80mm/s but I rarely go above that feedrate.
Did you seriously mean 200% infill? If you attempt that amount of infill you are asking for extrusion problems. The slicer will probably limit practical infill to 100% but I never set infill at more than 98%.
Thermistor display correct temperature in my room while heater is off. So I think it working properly (at least in the lower temperatures position). As for ABS, I don’t know, I have never printed it before, but I heared, it have very “chemical” smell while extruded, and this one smells nothing. And there is PLA mark on the box…