What is the best way to make thermistor stay in the hole for it (of Hotend)
Kapton tape works.
I wrapped it in aluminum foil and twisted it into the hole
Fire cement!
Will the soldering lead help ?
FYI, I am planning to put the thermistor into a male Stud(PCB Spacer), so it can be easily screwed in , check out this picture
I used metal filled Epoxy. JBWeld brand, in the US.
Its rated for about 500°F (260°C)
Fire cement or exhaust repair putty. A solid fill will also help transfer heat more reliably to the thermistor
The best way to make it stay in is to use an axial-lead thermistor in a hole that goes all the way through the heater block, so one lead comes out each side.
both leads comes in the same direction for the thermistor I am having
@Jim_Wygralak Epoxy does, by design, not withstand temperatures above 150C indefinitely. There are many reports where JB weld, quote, turned to dust after a couple hours in a hotend - so check if your thermistor is still seated properly every once in a while or you’ll risk melting your hotend if the thermistor falls out.
@Mohamed_Thalib_H the E3D hotend uses a bit of Kapton tape to hold the thermistor in place, which isn’t elegant, but works. Check their website for detailed instructions. Keep in mind that Kapton also ages (not as fast as JB weld, though) and loses its strength after a while.
@Thomas_Sanladerer It works until it doesn’t. Make sure you’ve got it anchored in another place so the cable doesn’t pull it out if you do that.
As for using putting it in a standoff as @Mohamed_Thalib_H is suggesting, which I recommend against, you want to use fire cement, or whatever that ceramic stuff Makergear uses for their hot ends is.
@Whosa_whatsis post slightly updated. When relying on tape, it’s important to not just stick it to the one face of the heater block that the hole is drilled into, but to wrap it around the edges so that it the adhesive sees shear forces instead of a straight pulling force.
In my case, the tape is just there to keep the thermistor neatly seated - its wires are tied to those of the cartridge to provide mechanical support and strain relief.
I would advise against JB weld or other types of epoxy.
Sillicone RTV adhesive works, and can be removed from a heater block if you kill your thermistor, but is messy and a pain to apply.
Fire cement or exhaust muffler putty/paste work brilliantly and can be done neatly too. However it is quite permenant and you probably won’t be able to remove it easily.
Kapton isn’t the most beautiful and elegant solution ever, but it works well as long as you strain relieve it adequately, and you can remove it easily in the event of a problem.
The JB Weld I used claims, on the package, to be able to withstand temperatures up to 550 Deg F when fully cured.
I chose the metal filled epoxy because I figured it would have better thermal conductivity than anything else I could easily lay my hands on.
It has been in service for over a year with no sign of weakening. I can only speak to my experience with it.