What would the challenges be for the proper extrusion if such a solution as the one in the pic below would be employed? The locknut + plate would make for about 8mm stack so the ss heatbreak wouldn’t be fully screwed inside the alu heatsink by this amount, leaving a gap inside the heatsink, above the ss heatbreak. Also because the distance between the heating block and the heatsink is larger now, the transition zone would be longer and it will influence the extrusion too.
Essentially a guaranteed jam-happy setup - unless you use an aluminum bracket and nut. v6 is probably the preferred hotend vs. v5, since it has the teflon liner extending into the heatbreak (at least on 1.75mm).
I would have expected the jam to be connected to the gap the ss heatbreak leaves above it inside the heatsink, but why does the nut/bracket guarantee a jam?
The heat break needs to be short, and then the cooling needs to start as soon as possible. With the nut there, you are in fact extending the heat break and therefore the heat transition zone upwards.
If the nut is aluminium and the mounting plate is as well, that might be workable.
Overall the shorter the heat transition zone, the better it is.
You could do it with a brass nut, which is much easier to find than an aluminum nut and not too much less conductive.
Good point, yes.
More problematic would be finding an alu bracket … unless I get one done in a shop but that would make the whole attempt useless… Also a nylock brass nut is not that easy to find (another question is if the nylon in the nut would work with the high temp)
Nylock nuts don’t work at high temp, nylon creeps around 50C. Why do you want nylock anyway? The extra nut acts as a jam nut to hold it all together.
Check out the way a Replicator 1 or Replicator 2 hot end (mk7) attaches the heat break to the cooling bar, that’s basically what you’re looking for here. You can use a mk7 heat break and cooling bar setup with an E3Dv6 hot end and it works great.
I figure that with vibrations it might get loose …
Tens of thousands of mk7 hot ends in use globally would suggest that it’s not an issue. Just tighten the jam nut.
My personal opinion, nylocks are necessary for bolts through PLA and other plastics that creep under load, but otherwise you shouldn’t need them in a 3D printer.
If I only could do a hotend all by myself. It would be flawless 
Just kidding, imho the best overall solution I saw all the time is the Minihotend from deltaprintr. It would be better with a shallower tip, insulation, a little different heatbreak and a better mounting than the 3mm through the topfin, but in total it is the best hotend to get atm. Groovemount needs to die
@Rene_Jurack Agreed with the groovemount. Such a pita.
Great minds think alike…
Quick, somebody design an adapter to put the Deltaprintr hot end on an existing groovemount printer so we can start transitioning. @Shai_Schechter ?
You do not need the nut. Just tap a thread in the bracket…
Until I’ll decide to depart from the e3d v6 I still need to have a non-groove mount for it … will a 2mm thick alu bracket be strong enough for a mount? I was betting on the steel bracket because it is tough at thinner widths…
2mm might be ok, I would probably go for 3mm to be safe.
@Rien_Stouten Would a 2mm thread be enough for it? The M6 nut has a width of 5.2mm so I thought there will not be enough threads.
@Ryan_Carlyle Don’t make us go back to the stone age! 
@Rene_Jurack What’s up with the heat break? Do you have suggestions?
My suggestions are way to much for a comment