Whats the best 3d printer extruder drive gear in your opinion and why?
Two good choices. For a conventional hobbed style, the Arcol Hyena. Consistent sharp teeth, excellent filament bite, just works without calling attention to itself.
A dual geared extruder. I have a couple from Printrbot’s beta, also hear that Bondtech’s versions are excellent. These deform the filament, making their own drive teeth, and will stall the drive motor before slipping or chewing notches. Mine stayed within the filament diameter so no problems feeding into the hot end. With both choices you still need the rest of the extruder to properly support and guide the plastic if you’re going to use a flexible filament like NinjaFlex
@Kirk_Yarina thanks for the reply, I asked, because I wanted to build my own bondtech style extruder.
I was very pleased with the gear that came with the kossel kit från builda3dprinter. Don’t know what that model’s called though. Teeth has great grip that really bite in to the filament. Not the cheapest one around though.
http://builda3dprinter.eu/product/spur-gear/
Never really had an issue with any drivegear. Just thought there was a problem. It was either the hotend, the temperature or the filament.
the complete print head from bq is double drive gear (DDG head) which really works best. Also very good suitable for soft filament like Ninjaflex
I’m biased of course, but the printrbot gear head (machined aluminum) and our Ubis hotends just never fail. Good to 275c… the HF is especially good high flow and more powerful wattage
Brook
I’ll second the HF, that’s what my PB beta dual gear (aka gear head) extruder is driving. I wrote a gcode generator to determine melt rate (based on incoming filament csa * speed), crank it up until the lower power Wantai stepper starts skipping, and take 80% of that. The HF is 3X the first all metal Ubis, and half again the E3D I have on another bot. The E3D is driven by a bowden so possibly not full tilt, but the HF is definitely faster. All of them are with a 0.4mm nozzle so bigger orifices (orfii?) may do even better. I use slic3r’s autospeed set at 25mm^3/sec (with lower speed visible perimeters, forget what speed), works just fine.