What's the best method for *smoothing PLA prints *? Manual sanding, Sandblasting, Tumbler,

3D Printing
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1

What’s the best method for *smoothing PLA prints *?
Manual sanding,
Sandblasting,
Tumbler,
Vibration Tumbler,
…?
What materials and grit size work best?

2

This one?

I’m not sure it is safe to handle in a hobby-workshop.

3

MEK has a whole bunch of scary warning labels on the tin, and I’m not even sure that it works for PLA (it’s excellent for welding ABS, though). The tumbler is a tool used for polishing and not so much for sanding or smoothing. Sand blasting sounds like it should work if you have access to it.

4

http://forum.typeamachines.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=307

MEK seems to be safe…

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2728-visual-enhancement-of-pla/

… but doesn’t work
“MEK is a only (a stronger) derivate of acetone. It does not work nor does THF. They only dehydrate the PLA material but don’t treat it in a manner of dissolving and resolidifying when evaporating as acetone does to ABS.”

Sand blasting will probably remove all detail.
With a tumbler you need larger particles to remove larger features instead of just rounding them. (Same as with sand paper.)

5

but I’ve never tried it myself

6

We have got really good results with painting, but need to say, there were no tiny details. All the prints were somewhat big. First apply primer (acrillic or poliester, both work), sand to get all part smooth then paint in desired colour. We do both PLA and ABS in this techique. For those who want to speed the process with heat, print your stuff with 100% infill and make sure prints are solid, or sh*t will happen. Safe heating for PLA up to 45-50, ABS can take 80 degrees without problems.

7

@Roger_Schoeni ive looked onto this and the smallest quantity I can acquire is 50 litres. So until I can find somebody to supply smaller quantities I’m unable to test it.

8

https://www.google.de/shopping/product/16087832976927106754?q=Tetrahydrofuran&client=firefox-a&hs=mO0&rls=org.mozilla:de:official&channel=fflb&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.61725948,d.Yms,pv.xjs.s.en_US.14VvZ8adRLw.O&biw=2347&bih=1216&tch=1&ech=1&psi=V3gLU-uaMcHUtAaOmYHQDw.1393260629937.3&sa=X&ei=WngLU-OKF8XKtQb_qYDQCw&ved=0CIsBEPMCMAY

17eur/l for “Tangit Anlöser 1000 ml” containing stabilized TewtraHydroFuran or

http://www.poolfolien123.de/PVC-Quellschweissmittel-Tetrahydrofuran-poolfolie?gclid=CKK2k7Sc5bwCFRDLtAodpDsAZA

28eur for 1l of the pure stuff.

9

You probably don’t want to use thf unless you have some hefty safety measures

10

I’ve used Dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride) with some success. It seems that for both this an THF it depends on the resin of PLA you have as to whether it works.

I’ve found Dichloromethane works on most PLAs i’ve had. It works really nicely as a solvent weld for PLA. The effectiveness as a smoothing agent depends on the particular PLA and colour.

11

As @Sanjay_Mortimer mentioned THF (Tetrahydrofuran) can solve PLA. I haven’t done it personally because the cost is prohibitive (~$60/liter) but I could see it working.

It’s important to buy a stabilized version, as pure THF can cause explosive peroxides to form in the air. When stabalized, however, it is no more dangerous than Acetone.