What’s the problem here? Is it
A. Extruder temperature
B. Bed temperature
C. Extruder feed skipping
D. Bad filament
E. Other?
This 20mm cube measures perfectly calibrated.
What temp. and print speed did you use?
F. Maybe everything but B. I don’t see a bed temperature problem. Extruding too cold or bad filament may lead to skipping or slipping. Maybe poor temperature control. Have you run PID autotune for the hot end?
The real experts here will want to know the material and settings, and what hot end you’re using. Is this a new behavior, or are you new to this?
Yikes! what kind of printer do you have and what type of filament was this? It looks like the first 10 mm were ok, then everything went to hell? first thought is under extrusion, something I have been battling for a few weeks. is the middle gap a missing segment or did the layers shift?
I would hazard to guess, but given its degrading nature, there’s so many things.
Temp too low, causing drive slip.
Overheating extruder stepper (current too high)
Bad (filament, drive, cleanliness) and the drive is slipping against faliment.
Overheating extruder assembly, filament softening near the drive.
Cheap filament, unequal thickness, hence unreliable drive and inconsistent extrude volume.
It’s a long list, and that’s only some. Need many more details
What about extrusion speed. Maybe a loss in T\C feedback that started in the middle. I don’t do 3D printing but I do large scale molding. All of the gaps point to excessive shrinkage and poor bonding. There could have been a rapid change in room temperature since your dealing with micro extrusion.
Prusa i2 modified with Bowden extruder, running Repetier/Marlin firmware. 1.75 PLA filament 229C for first layer, 224C after. 50C bed.
Those hotend temps are pretty hot for PLA but not the hottest I’ve seen (Maker Geeks extrudes at 235 C). What brand of filament?
@CELSS If its a printed extruder, check that the bearing and drive gear aren’t rubbing on the housing. Had that once, it caused intermittent under extrusion that took me a while to find because it was fine 95% of the time.
The temperature you need highly depends on the melt index. The lower the melt index the higher the temperature needed for smoother flow. The higher the melt index the lower the temperature needed for smoother flow. Not sure if this information is helpful or not.
I think C
I tought it was à pièce of cake
I have to ask…did this print detach from the bed before it finished? Did you ever have a successful print? It looks like it partially detached a few layers up and that you might have a wobble in a z leadscrew if you have one which it sounds like you do. I think the extrusion was good when you started, but it is possible that you have a partial jam. I can not be too sure of any of this, but audio and video of it printing would help. I am the most sire that the print was having bed adhesion issues.
@Adam_Steinmark unknown filament brand on an unmarked reel I got with another printer
@NathanielStenzel no detach. Leadscrew wobble is a possibility for some of the minor voiding 1/2 way up.
@Kura_kuea possible, I’ll look into that.
What printer manufacturer shipped it? Did they recommend a specific printing temperature or range?
The big gaps were definitely due to feeder jams, that I caught and manually fixed after a couple of layers. Whether those jams were caused by under melting in the hot end, nozzle clogging, friction in the conduit, or feeder tension/alignment/skipping I’m still not sure.
I wish you luck fixing your inconsistent extrusion. It looks like it is not fixed on the top layer either. I often find myself telling people to listen to their printer…and listen to food when they cook it which is another story.
@Adam_Steinmark Dobot Magician. Documentation for 3D printing is pretty sketchy. Firmware is not working correctly to increment z-axis (which is why I’m back to using my reprap).