When I read about people using painters tape to hold down their parts onto glass(show in the picture) and aluminum beds, I never see anything other than 3M products. So here’s my 2 bits on Blue Hawk:
I’ve been using it for 3 months now with only a few issues that I’m sure other tapes have as well.
I picked the 2.88" Blue Hawk tape up from Lowes for $8.48, about 10 lbs of material ago. I’m not even half way through the roll. In the picture, you can see that the tape is damaged a little because I was having a tough time getting some of the prints off of it, so lifting parts is not usually an issue. Also, all of those parts (in the photo) were printed one-by-one in the middle of the bed. The parts are flipped upside down so you can see the first layer prints. A lot of prints can be done on one piece of tape.
The problems I have had are trying to get a large flat bottom part off of the tape. If my base layer is set too low, I have to damage a little bit of the print just to grab a corner to get it started. Once it’s started, it comes right off. Sometimes the tape will bubble up in between a part and I will have to use my putty knife to smear it back down for the next print. Speaking of knife; I recommend that you use a putty knife and sharpen the end of it to almost a point. Be careful, because I’ve had a few close calls.
Hope this helps someone.
Gran idea! La cinta gris también es útil para hacer piezas autoadhesivas, como Logos o letras, se pueden recortar con tijeras y se pegan en cualquier superficie.
What are you printing? It came out awesome!!
@Jeremiah_Coley It’s a paradoxical- engrenage paradoxal gear that can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1719663
@EL_TALLER_DE_NEURUS The painters tape is stuck to a piece of glass. The ‘gray ribbon’ is a mat to protect my table.
I’m surprised people are still using masking tape. Have you tried glue sticks or hair sprays?
Second glue stick. Works much better than tape on glass
I’ve used hairspray and I dont care for the stuff. It gets on my equipment and print.
That’s why I like glue stick. Roll it over the expected print area. It disappears when the bed heats up, it gets very strong when heated 60-80c, and best of all, the part generally pops right off once the bed cools. There’s usually some residue on the part, but you can easily scratch or polish it off if needed. I scrape off the extra glue from the glass every couple prints with a razor
I’ll pick some up next time I’m at the store. Hopefully it’s as forgiving as tape, for when I do a crappy job at bed leveling.