While doing our best to ensure every machine is calibrated, we’ve printed a ton of these big clock gears. 2 layers only. Unfortunately, we haven’t actually shipped this many printers. Luckily some hardware hacking and software changes may remedy that soon. 
Ive done this before when I first started out trying to figure out what each setting did when I would change it
Adjust the design to have the extruder gears oversized and part off the top case under a sheet of see through plastic and then print normal height gears for the tests. 
@NathanielStenzel , I’m hoping to design a small printed piece that’ll allow me to nail these into the wall, and spin them interlocking. I think they might be too thin, but I dream of a wall where these are all linked together, and at the front of the store you can turn one, and it turns all the way at the back of the store. (Whenever we open one)
You’ll need more than two layer heights to get them to turn, but two solid layers plus ~10mm of single wall (vase mode) should work, without taking a whole lot more time or material.
Set up a jig and use it to help you glue a few of them together? That should give you the needed strength without adjusting the print any. The glue itself will probably make them more rigid.
If you glue them, do it with an angular offset. If you have three of them stacked, with the center one offset half a tooth, the teeth of the inner layer will be captive between the teeth of the outer layers of the mating gear, and they won’t be able to slip out of alignment axially. I’ve been thinking about this idea for lasercut gears for a while. Of course, there will be more friction than with a real herringbone gear as the faces of the teeth rub on each other. This can be reduced by using more layers with a smaller offset to more closely approximate a helical gear, but the more layers you have to use, the fewer gears you will have.
@Whosa_whatsis shouldn’t you just need to laminate 2 with a 1 tooth offset?
in a helical configuration might work, but being that thin they still might work their way loose. Three in a heringbone configuration would form a cup for each tooth that would be much more reliable.
Another idea, you could actually make the gears useful by attaching them to longer gears with a much smaller diameter If the pinion is longer, these gears will be able to slip axially a little bit without losing their place, and you could make them all into a drive train that would move very quickly at one end and imperceptibly slowly at the other.
Yes, in that configuration you could use 3 on one gear and 1 on another, with 2 you would always need 2 the approaching tooth would press one direction the evacuating tooth would press the opposite direction. I don’t think you need a fully captive tooth, also it will be a, pain top line up two perfectly, three is just greedy
Not difficult if you make a jig to do it.