Why does everything i make have to look like a bomb? Well, i guess I’m okay with it as long as it works and it allows me to run this 24V Dyze Design Hotend on my 12V printer…
Just don’t take your printer to a school 
@Alex_Skoruppa yes, that’s why i’m putting it there in the first place!
That Mendel 90 has had so many different components on it, it’s crazy!
Eh2 seconds to detonation… 
@Eclsnowman taking to school would only be a problem in USA but not in Europe (yet)
Controller FETs are usually pull-down, have you considered just feeding one end of the heater to the ( - ) side and other wire to 24V power?
@Jeff_DeMaagd yes, but then i’d have wire in 24V/2.5A somehow - and considering what a mess the rest of the wiring on this printer is after using it as a test bench for literally every single product i’ve ever tested, it’s safe to say this was the easier way 'round. Also safe to say that i should really tear down the entire printer, service it and rebuild it.
I don’t know, I could be wrong, But that setup looks “Crazy”
Wow, certainly looks like it could go ‘bang’ but I am sure all is to spec!
By the way are you running 10mm gt2 belts? If so was this an upgrade, and did if bring a noticeable improvement, and any downsides however minor?
@Alex_Gibson these are 15mm wide HTD-3M belts (GT/GT2/GT3 compatible). I wanted to eliminate any sort of flex/ringing from the belt as much as possible (the heavy y-axis has two belts and motors), but it turns out that the motors and linear guides add much more rippling than the belts themselves.
Downsides? Well, the belt is huge, obviously, and requires a ton of tension to stay tight, putting quite a bit of load on the motor bearings. Other than that, it’s nothing more than an entirely overkill belt, it performs pretty much exactly like a 6mm GT2-2M.
@Thomas_Sanladerer Was impressed with the Dyze, built a 24v printer to test it out. Curious your thoughts on the Marlin settings, the company is very open to suggestions and has implemented or were working on anything we brought up.
@Brandon_Satterfield so far, i’ve only added the custom thermistor table and raised maxtemp to my version of Marlin - is there any advantage in using the Dyze branch for the preheat timer instead of using Marlin’s own heater timeout?
For everyone else reading along, the issue with the Dyze 500°C thermistor is that it’s pretty much useless at room temperature, its resistance is so high that Marlin can’t tell whether the thermistor is actually cold or has been disconnected. So stock Marlin’s built-in MINTEMP feature will either not protect against a failed thermistor (mintemp set to ~25C) or will trigger the moment you turn the printer on (mintemp set to a “normal” value).
Sounds like they’re using the same thermistor as B3 offers for high temp. Pico high temp users have encountered the same issues.
@Thomas_Sanladerer when we first received ours we threw a unit together and entered their branch of Marlin. A few setting mods and up and running. One day the room was at 18C, never fired. That’s been the only time the min temp/ time out has been an issue.
I can look back, been a while back, and see what changes I made.
Did you buy their custom extruder too? Or did you print one off?
@Eclsnowman LOL, I was demoing my printer and someone told me that.
Not a bomb! Looks like a Frankenstein construction I like that .
I’m okay with it to.
Thanks Thomas, most helpful as it matches my experience trying wider belts.
I will be using a CoreXY and so the extra 8mm height taken up by going from 6-10mm belts is probably not worth any reduction in ringing. Will be using IGUS polymer bearings soon though, and hopefully thus removing the ball bearing vibration.