Woke up and roommate said my print failed and he had to go turn it off. He also said it felt room temp. I tried reprinting, but the heated bed would not heat. Found this under my bed and just soldered the wires back together. Back up and printing fine now. 
yeah done this repair a few times various cheap Overseas Motors ya know. the occasional Ramps 1.4. (Smirk)
I just had this happen too. The wires are fine but the plastic is melted. Iâll probably end up soldering a different connector on the board. I was thinking about using an RC battery plug so I can still disconnect it and itâll be able to handle the heat.
This is not just because of heat, but because of bad electrical contact, which in turn generates excessive heat.
@Oystein_Krog
The heat happens inside the plug because of the bad electrical contact 
Careful you donât have a fire running the cheap Chinese printer unattended.
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen Yes exactly, my point is that using a different connector wonât make any difference unless you fix the underlying problem.
110/230V and SSR for heat bed avoids high currents you need to heat the bed with 12/24V. Proper connectors rated for the current you need also avoid the problem.
@Oystein_Krog
Well, Yes and no. I Donut known hos mich Current runs tough this particular connector. But if there is almost no resistance in the connection, then there will be no heat. Another thing is the soldering and crimping of the cables inside the plug. In most cases 3D printers use a plug design which is not designed for the currents for a heated bed i.e⌠But as long as the plug is attached properly it shouldnât lead to a burning printer.
However, of course it would be better to use a plug which is designed for these currents.
Thatâs caused by a bad connection and high current, those types of connector can b prone to not connecting tightly enough.