Woodworking and 3D printing working together
Why not print in WoodFilament? Like extruder fichte?
@VolksTrieb propotyping phase
Ah okay then 
If pins engage wood to prevent turning (as I expect) and this part works well, casting in aluminum would make for very strong joins.
@Fred_U At the moment it seems to hold very well, still some testing needed.
I’m looking into how I can hold them in place without a bolt
I can’t imagine how one could secure such a joint without a bolt or similar mechanical fastener. An important factor to consider is the forces applied to the wood after the joint is assembled.
I can picture a set of mating squared off U-shapes in the radial pattern. One places the pieces together and rotates the parts to engage the U-shapes, but that means that only forces in the correct rotation are to be applied once connected.
I didn’t put too much work into the drawing, as it should have the two disks (shown in side view below) coaxial and the U-shaped clip portion aligned and ready to engage. Tricky to 3D print, though, especially as the individual clips would have to be pie-shaped/radial just as your engagement teeth are.
I was thinking something like an elastic band. My current onbjective would not need to support much weight.
Ever seen these? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjLDsQKxAyM
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No they look good but I’m not sure they’ll serve my purpose, which is to change the angle at specific intervals.
Think of a desk or floor lamp
Right, not the same application. But your design reminded me of them.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No From a technical reference, those things are amazing. I did a bit of follow-up searching and came up empty. It’s not immediately obvious to me how they interlock, how the surfaces engage, but it’s pretty spectacular in the simplicity. It certainly looks like it is perfect for 3D printing.
I’m surprised at the low number of views to that video as well, and disappointed that I can’t find additional information.
Coming from the film industry. A gobo arm has a similar grip but with added rubber washer in between the teeth. When tightened, you can’t budge it at all. So more smaller teeth and a hard rubber washer is all you really need.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/216685-REG/Matthews_B350580_Hollywood_Head_Black.html
And trust me this hold an enormous amount of weight out on an arm dangling over an actor’s head.
But build it and tighten it, so that the weight of the arm tightens the lock and doesn’t loosen it. You’ll see what I mean if you turn it around and apply pressure, you will either be making the lock stronger or weaker.
Think of a straight, long dovetail shape, now apply a spiral to it. That’s how each “thread” engages with the other side. I had spent some time drawing up a 4-segment one (like the one he showed in the video). Not only is it a pain to draw, but to get an FDM printer to print that so it’s a snug fit turned out to be a bit of a nightmare. I almost sent the design to Shapeways but in the end I didn’t have an application for it so I never bothered.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No That makes great sense. With all the surface area of the dovetail shape, there’s certainly a good load capacity. The concept of printing it on an FDM printer is frightening at best. It seems it would be better suited for SLS, or in the case of the video Objet type printing.
@Ariel_Yahni_UniKpty , this was something I made a while back for something that needed a “ratchet” feeling. Not sure if it would work for you, but depending on your weight requirements, making the spring loaded “pins” thicker so it’s harder to rotate might work. Or come up with a way to loosen the tension, rotate, then tighten it up again. I’ve been meaning to revisit this. I had the idea of using a bolt that goes through and adjusts the inner tension of the springs but at that point, just put a nut on the other side of that bolt and tighten it. 
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No interesting indeed. Will need to think, can you share that design?
Regarding mine I forgot to mention that originally intended to use the CNC Router to make those grooves in hardwood this being integrated to the piece.
Ah, that may not work. I don’t know how well the pins would work with wood. For me, I originally designed that for a cryptowheel. It has characters on the outer ring. Stack multiple of them together and you get something like a combination lock and each ring “clicks” are you rotate it.