nope this one on the back of the MKS TFT28:
missing/deleted image from Google+
It can be powered off just 5V from the controller. And on some of my other printers that seemed fine. But if you use the optional ESP wifi module that can plug into the back of the LCD, then it draws too much power and causes resets on the printerboard. So instead I hooked up TX, RX, 12V and Gnd between the LCD and the Printr Board.
Note that you need to compile the Printrboard firmware special if you want to use serial Tx/Rx. You also need to solder the pins on the printrboard since they are not normally used. Also doing that means the normal USB coms on the board can no longer be used (atleast I couln’t find a way to use both Tx/Rx, and keep the usb working).
Neat! I have one of those boards. Publish instructions and I’ll do it and tell the adoptabot crowd about it. Can you publish the firmware? Maybe this could be a good solution for adding a screen like this to any printrbot. Are your stls published? Looks really cool
Brook
@Brook_Drumm yeah, I will put everything together with some instructions and put it out on Youmagine.
Sweet! Looking forward to it!
@Brook_Drumm Here is the basics of it. I included the solid model files (in plenty of formats to suit peoples tastes), my modified LCD files which include my graphics edits and config edits, my .hex file for the F5 board, and a bunch of other files. Hopefully people can find them useful.
@Eclsnowman Thank you very much. I did not expect to get everything so quick and well documented. 
@enhydra It’s not documented as well as I would normally do. But I was doing it as a one-off for the school. So I didn’t take all the pictures I normally would. Now the unit is with them, so I don’t have it around to confirm everything is 100% correct (I was working across 2 laptops and my desktop… so my version control methods were not the best). But this should get anyone wanting to replicate it pretty close. It should at least go faster than when I did it the first time anyway
You mentioned that the USB is not working while having the LCD hooked to the PrintrBoard. So did you do all the settings via wifi or LCD menu?
Thats Why I added the WiFI module. It allows you to connect to the LCD with a Wifi-Serial Bridge which gets passed to the controller. So on ProntrFace I was able to do the config of the bed size, etc from the TCP connection. Another option is an FTDI Serial to USB adapter on the Tx/Rx lines for the short period of time you need to configure the board. After that you can fully control the printer from the LCD and print from SD/USB on the LCD.
I suppose you could also just put a Gcode file on the USB/SD with the commands for configuring the bed size etc.
@Eclsnowman Perfect, that’s all I need to know.
@enhydra Also it is not that the USB doesn’t work while the LCD is connected. It is that for the UART Tx/Rx to function, you need to custom compile the firmware. The PrintrBoard has a nice USB chip built in which would normally be doing the communication to the host. But the LCD doesn’t connect via USB, It connects via Uart Serial. So to get the LCD working j-laird on his Github documented how to enable hardware UART on the PrintrBoard. The downside is doing so means the normal hardware USB chip on the printrboard no longer functions to connect to the board. I am no expert on this for sure. If there is a way to make both work (Any Marlin and Hardware Guru’s know for sure?) I am all ears.