x axis adjustment

Hi guys.

I have a problem on my x axis (right hand side when printing)

Since swapping from a ramps setup im getting serious problems with the right hand side of prints.
I have tried slowing the print speed and adjusted the belt with no better quality.
If the print has a screw mount each side the left is almost perfect circlular, but the right side is squashed and uneven.

Is there an alternative jerk setting on the smoothie firmware, or has anyone have any suggestions ?

I do have a photo but cant see how to attach it.

Cheers

War

Imported from wikidot

Hi guys

This is now driving me mad.

I have sent wolf a picture to show the problem.

I really dont want to start stripping the printer down and i really dont think there iss a problem with it.

I have just printed this our , left and right
thingiverse dot com/thing:516294/#remixes (cant post links )

There are angles, holes, and straight edges and they have come out perfect,

If i try to ptrint with something with an ) on the side of the print i get something like this >

Anything that has a slow incline comes out wrong. If the print has a pretruding screw hole on the side so it should be a round support with a hole, well im getting something like an eye shape, and that is rough.

Any help guys

War

Edit by Arthur, the picture :

Hey.

The equivalent to jerk in Smoothie is “junction_deviation”. you can try using a lower value ( for example 0.005 ) and see if that helps.

However, your problem really looks like a problem with either your slicing settings, or maybe your temperature ( did you calibrate your PID settings ? ).

Cheers.

Hi arthurwolf

Thanks for posting the image, and info.

Im using colorfabb pla set to 205 temp, that has normally worked for me.

I did run the pid autotune, but the values were so different to the ones i had in marlin and the hotennd seemed to heat up way to fast, so i put my original values in. I will rerun the auto pid and try those again though.

I printed 2 other parts after i posted here and they came out perfect on all sides.

The problem only seems to be when it is trying to build up the side to make the circle. The picture top left circle would have been on the table with that side on the right and the bad curve its supposed to print would be on the bottom as it builds up. If thst makes sence.

I have just had a thought while thinking about what you said in your reply.

The part is small (printed 4 at a time) and this could be a heat issue, my hotend is a e3d v6 so has the fan on the front, i have a fan mounted of the left hand side, but the duct does not cover the whole hotend, it sits just left so the airflow would be a lot more on the left side and not very much on the right.
I guess i could print a fanduct for the other side as well, to see if this is the problem.

War

Please ignore -any- setting from your Marlin time.

PID settings are completely different in Smoothie.
And even the temperature you read is going to be different due to different temperature algorythms, so please tune your filament temperature again too ( ie. 205C is probably not the right temperature for you anymore ).

Hi arthur

I have added a fan on the right now,
Doing 8 more prints 4 printing on the x axis - and 4 on the y axis | i will drop you an email with photo attached when finnished.

I will also run a pid for hotend when they have finnished.
Whats the command to do the pid on heated bed, i know the hotend one.

Also colorfabb recommend using 190-210 on their fillament, and at nearly 40 euro for 750 gram its not cheap to waste lol

Update

Done the auto pid on both hotend and bed.

Just doing some test prints going from 180 up.

War

I have sent arthur some pics.

Well after printing about 30 of these dam things, and have no idea why this screw mount is causing so much hassle, i even tried printing with support with no real improvement.

I measured my bed for level and was just 0.05mm out, adjusted but didnt help, i greased up the x carrage and adjusted the belt, added a second fan. I am using simplify3d and tried ponterface, mattercontrol.

Ended up printing pla at 240 :frowning: and junction_deveation at 0.005 and halving the print speed tp 20mm

War