Also is there any way I can stableize my hot end mount. Its very flexible and i can’t adjust it very well …I just realized that it drops to the plate every time I try to adjust it…it’s a prusa i3 full acrylic China nock off. …it’s regret getting it …but I’m stuck with it …so I’d like ot to ad lest work a little bit you know guys?
the nut at the top should keep your hot end in place, make sure its tight
You only have a fan on your heatsink. This will stop clogging due to heat creep. So that is OK.
You also need a fan on your actual print. I guess the back of the cube is where the most bubbles are, the front would get minimal airflow as I can see your fan is a little angled.
You also have some serious slop on your axis. If your Hotend it’s not stiff and 100% tight, things tend to shift like that. Tighten your high-end.
For me it looks like it is extruding too much filament.
First) make certain that the 3d printer feed is calibrated. My Velleman Vertex had totally wrong settings as defaults.
I have had similar problems due to a slicer bug (one exists in both cura and slic3r 1.2.9). In slic3r it is triggered when doing solid infill between two walls but cura is doing fine on the same model. Try another slicer (cura if you have slic3r).
I’m with @Kent_Asplund on that. Slic3r gave me extrusion width issues. Cura was much better in my opinion. I also think extrusion is excessive, builds up on edges of infill, then starts dragging through excess. Then heat buildup starts to pull molten layers below, piling up!
The infill just seems very thick on those prints, edges get even thicker. Double check Extruder steps per MM.
Definitely check the calibration on your extruder. All things stem from that calibration. Make sure all nuts are tight and no slop/wiggle.
Yea it solp/wiggles and everything is tight …it’s just cheap. I regret buying it alot…
@Reach_3D_Printers_Na yea I have tripple checked the math for my extrudion steps. It is exactly on the money. I have no clue how to use cura. .I’m lucky I got slic3r to work. I’m not sure how any of the slicing programs work honestly. …exept slic3r …I know that one very well.
Since height seems even, perhaps z steps per mm is off. When you stop the print, is the z height lcd display readout equal to the actual z height of the part?
Z steps are also dictated by micro stepping. Nema 17s are usually 200 steps per revolution. Micro stepping uses a sequence of some coils on and off, to take 400, 800, 1600, 3200 or even 6400 steps. These are controlled via pin jumpers under the stepper drivers, on ramps. Typically 1/16 micro stepping is all 3 jumpers bridged. This creates 3200 steps per revolution. If the firmware is calculated to 1600, but the board is mechanically set to 3200, the printer will take fewer motor steps, thinking it reached the correct z height.
Eliminate z steps questions by measuring actual part height to where the printer thinks it’s at on the LCD.
Possibly filament diameter. If your using 3mm filament but have it set for 1.75, it thinks it’s printing 5.5mm^2 when it’s actually printing 9.5mm^2.
Mk7 or Mk8 filament drive gear? They may have said it was smaller diameter Mk8, but gave you an Mk7, giving you more filament travel per step.
You can also check if micro stepping is the issue on x and y by checking the actual size of the part in x and y, verifying it conforms with cad model x and y. Perhaps extruder micro stepping is off also.
If x and y are correct, most likely e and z are as well.
@Reach_3D_Printers_Na actually when I plug my printer in I can’t even access the LCD display …it’s just blank.
@Panayiotis_Savva no I do not have any fans blowing on my print at all. Only a fan on my actual hot end.