you know for a 5V LED WS2812B’s seem to really dislike 5V, the flicker like crazy but they will work just fine at 4.5V, any suggestions on how to fix this? it would be preferable to run these off of a 5V wall wart. its just a strip of 11 LEDs
Did you try the resistor on the data line into the first LED and the electrolytic cap on you supply line (believe it’s 1000uF/10V)
i tried a 1uF capacitor, all i have around are 0603 smd resisitors and capacitors lol
i did try a resisitor between the first LED and the power supply but they just didnt light up at all even though my multimeter reads 4.8V im guessing im overlooking something there lol
as far as a resistor before the first LED i kinda cant because its hardwired to the Attiny85 and there no place to jam a resisior in there lol
11 LEDs, so your using a sepeqrate power supply? Are the grounds connected?
Also, a lot of “5v” power supplies often put out 5.3v or more - and I’ve found that if you over volt ws2812s and friends, it messes with their timing and by extension, the signal timing.
Voltage from power supply was 4.9 and from wall wart it was exaclty 5V and in both cases it caused flickering. The Attiny and the LEDs are all running off of the same supply i just tested them with both to see if it was the wall wart that was giving me issues 
There are slightly different timings for WS2811, Ws2812, and WS2812B (and I’ve found that the chips sometimes vary in what they’ll take) - you can also try changing the led definition to one of the other WS281x to see if that shifts anything for you
Ill definitely give that a shot 
thanx man i appreciate the help
Maybe your power supply is noisy (can be seen if you have an oscilloscope). If so, adding a proper (1000 uF or more) electrolytic capacitor can help. I use attiny85 and haven’t seen flickering. Alternatively, change the power supply and see if it changes anything
hmm - I haven’t used the ATTiny’s much, but its also possible that the voltage output you’re getting is maybe just under 3.3V…
The spec for the WS2812’s is that they require 0.7*Vcc to define a “high” signal, which comes out to 3.5V if you’re driving them on a full 5.
However, they usually work fine on 3.3, but not always
if your driving them at 4.5V, then the spec is 0.7*4.5 = 3.15 for defining a “high”. This probably explains why you’re getting better results by under-powering the LEDs. Its not that the LEDs are really happier at 4.5 volts, its that if Vcc is only 4.5, then they tolerate a lower voltage signal.
I’ve never had problems driving them with my 3.3v ESP8266 or TeensyLC, but its possible that those MCUs are putting out a “strong” 3.3v and the tiny is putting out a weak one (I haven’t checked with a multimeter)
For the record, I drove my attiny85 and the LEDs (60 led ring) from both a laptop and a power bank, both working just fine. The attiny I use is not a “barebone” chip but a small board featuring a power IC as well, maybe it makes a difference. Something like this: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32697283942.html
You could put a diode on between PSU and the 5v input to the leds. Should drop the voltage a bit more.
Thats a pretty good theory actually. Ill get some of those from amazon
I was going to agree with @Kirill_Kolyshkin that it might just be a power supply with lousy filtering, letting some 60Hz noise through.
@Cristian_Martinez get come capacitors while at it; the stabilizer IC on the board will make sure you get no more than 5V but it can’t smooth the noise; if I remember right there are only two small (1 uF) capacitors before and after it
@Kirill_Kolyshkin yeah my attiny85 have a voltage regulator so its running on 3.3V but the LEDs are getting straight VCC of 5V. Im gonna try the capacitor and see if it helps fingers crossed
These kinds of pixels have voltage criteria that must be met to ensure flicker free operation (of course using the wrong pixel type in defining it in code can cause flicker too).
Pixels data logic voltage minimums are dictated by the pixels positive voltage. If your feeding it 3.3v logic it may just barely work if your powering the pixels with 5v. Reducing the power to the pixels also reduces the logic threshold it’s needs so it can discern the high state and the low state of the signal.
Your options are reduce the voltage power to the pixels or increase the data logic voltage. I prefer using a level shifter to convert my 3.3v to 5v logic. Using the level shifter I Have had no issues with the different ws28x that I have used. Dropping the voltage is ok too but make sure the component you use can handle the current flow of the LEDs.
@Chris_Rees well that makes sense. So the issue is me sending 3.3v logic when the LEDs are getting 5V power. Thanx!
Just used this the other day on a project…