can someone STL this for me?? i am NOT good at this software process its Traxxas T or E-Maxx Bulkheads i have looked UP AN DOWN for this and i cant find one THANKS
It would be nearly impossible to make a working 3D model for this part with just some PR shots. You need precise measurements for hole placement, diameters for the openings, etc.
Now if you had one in hand and some calipers, that’s a different story.
what you need to do is download JPEG_TO_STL.EXE
Chad, that’s not a simple shape at all. Even if you disregard the cut-outs that make it appear to be trusswork, there are holes in all three axes, along with the fillets and radii for the various segments.
It would be challenging to create on a 3d printer as well, but you could get by if you plan to manually drill the holes after it is printed. When I’m printing something with critical hole placement, I’ll create pilot holes with the printer to guide the main drill process.
The rabbet on the underside would make for an interesting print unless that was the top side. I can see that it would not be, due to the bulges on the opposite side.
I tried to find some drawings for that specific part, but found the part instead:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/bulkheads-bulkhead-braces/front-bulkheads-for-the-traxxas-t-maxx-e-maxx-black/
At sixteen dollars, it’s going to be less expensive to buy than it would be to create and print.
Fred thats 100% fine to drill the holes on a press the main hole is the CENTER with the indent that other crap is CRAP the outline and the nubs on the UPPER RIGHT picture and the nubs on the lower RIGHT pic is all it needs i have a set of plane cnc aluminum ones
oh and the screws are not fine thread they are like a wood or a nylon screw that grips sadly it would be better if there was no holes
If you have plain aluminum bulkheads, plain as in flat sheet with an outline, that’s half the battle. The nubs could could complicate things, unless the bulkhead could be thicker than the main body in the photo. Can you post a photo of the aluminum ones?
I have metric threaded inserts for plastic that are heated on the tip of my soldering iron, then inserted into a properly sized hole. They accept machine screws when such fastening is needed. Per your reference of wood screws, you’d still want pilot holes but the precision would no longer be a factor. Placement is still important, of course.
@Mark_Rehorst u know where I can get a good caliper, kinda random question but I need a good one for this exact reason
Now that’s my kind of snark @william_foster
@Matthew_Del_Rosso The cheap Chinese digital calipers you can find on Amazon have worked well for me for a few years now. I don’t have expensive, professionally calibrated ones to test it against, but I’ve seen a few reviews from people who do saying the cheap Chinese ones are more than good enough for hobbyist use. You might also want to consider picking up a digital micrometer too. Between the two measuring tools you should be set for quite a while.
@Stephen_Baird ok ill give it a look thanks for the help
I design space flight parts for a living and have to interface with complicated parts like this on a regular basis…a few thoughts…
OnShape has a great suite of cloud based CAD tools and it’s free. Even runs on light duty machines and tablets. I highly recommend it for the hobbyist level modeling and assembly work. Digging in and learning how the design tools work will pay major dividends if you have a 3D printer at home. The possibilities are virtually endless, but it all starts with a good working knowledge of the design tools.
Also, I use $10 dial calipers from Harbor Freight all day long. Company pays to have them professionally calibrated every 6 months. 5 years now and they are still in spec and have never been adjusted!
Scan the part, make a vector graphic trace of it, extrude into third dimension, and then throw your computer out the window and pay $16 for the part.
@Francis_Lee Not to mention that fused filament is very unlikely to be as strong for the weight as injection molded. That even looks glass fiber reinforced, likely longer fibers than can be FFF’d.
@Jeff_DeMaagd well for strength they’d have to beta cast and resin mold it. I wouldn’t waste the plastic to have a 100% infill on that part.
That way if it breaks, you have a mold to make another cast.
hold on a sec guys heres a new post… this part is far more technical im posting then this one but what do i know because i have not done it before…
@Mark_Rehorst
I’ve found that my harbor freight digital calipers eat cheap chinese batteries as if they were candy! My friend with a full-tilt CNC productions shop leaves his calipers turned on all the time and the batteries seem to last forever. Mitutoyo brand, I think.
@Francis_Lee
I was considering to suggest to Chad that he buy some molding silicone and make a mold for this part. Casting resin and molding silicone aren’t cheap either, making the sixteen dollar commercial part less expensive, but not as much fun as the project.
@Mark_Rehorst
I figured I had trash for volts, but will use up the dozen before I purchase a “real” battery for the tool. At one battery per use, they go quickly, even though it’s one use per week or two. Some exaggeration in the previous comments.