Extruder/Hot End replacement for the K8200
I’m not very happy with the experience I’ve had this far with the K8200 stock extruder and hot-end and would appreciate some advice on what replacement hot-end OR extruder + hot-end I should buy because i’m not really up to date with what’s what.
Picture possibly related.
Many thanks!
e3d. 
+1 for E3D
Is that the real J-head MkV in the picture?
+Denys Dmytriyenko: yes
E3D !
ok, i’m currently looking into the e3d - is there any particular reason you recommend it?
all metal, becoming the standard go to for replacements, good support by them of open source
I’ve never been let down by the E3D (and mine is even one revision back, when the cooling wasn’t quite as good as on the newest version).
I’ve had prints fail in ways that left filament cooking in the hot end for hours (Oops!) which would probably make a PEEK or other plastic based heat break fail, or at the very least make the nozzle clog, but the E3D has put up with it without complaint.
sounds good - i’ve had trouble with molten filament travelling up the threads - i assume there is no such issue here?
They are actively developing things for 3d printing and recently showed an E3D V5 at 400+C. Anything other than all metal [except ceramic] would melt at those temps. Call it future proofing…
The E3D’s top end is actively cooled, so there’s going to be absolutely no molten filament where there shouldn’t be any. Plus, if you’re worried about the hotend leaking in the classical sense, rest assured - they don’t leak. It’s recommended that you tighten down the nozzle at 300C, but even if you don’t do that it will absolutely not leak.
Get an E3D - you can’t go wrong with it.
I’ve never seen it, and in theory that shouldn’t really be possible. As I understand it, that happens in hot ends with PEEK heatbreaks because the PEEK softens or swells at operational temperatures and the pressure of the molten plastic in the hot end can use that find an escape through the threads.
The tight tolerances of the E3D, as well as the all metal construction and heat sink which minimizes the molten area within the hot end, all make that sort of thing just about impossible.
But you need an extra fan for E3D… Still well worth it!
Ships with a fan … just add 12 volts. !
@William_Frick right, I didn’t mean you need to buy an extra fan, I meant you need to run it… In other words - it requires an always-on fan (included), unlike J-head
hmm - they seem to be out of stock unfortunately…
shipping the thing across the pond won’t do I’m afraid - the waiting time for it to get through customs and then posible import taxes are quite the hassle. i’ll look for a more european source, but thank you for the link
downside of popularity - out of stock for all versions!
