Follow-up of the “ringing/belt” post from a couple days ago:
Originally shared by René Jurack
A genuine GT3 2M belt doesn’t affect the ringing. It eliminates it.
The part with the ringing artefacts is printed with “china 2MGT”, the other one with genuine “Gates Powergrip GT3 2M-06”
Same gcode, same printer, same filament. Just different belts.
So the bottom is GT3? Have you done any bench tests with stretch vs. impulse?
I switched them accidently in some of the shoots. The GT3-one is always the one without ringing.
Do you have a tool to measure belt tension? It could rule out some factors.
@Stephanie_A easiest way without specialty tools is via a know lateral load, the span, and the measured deflection.
That’s a huge difference. Not something I would have expected. I wonder what’s in, or missing from, the knock-off belt.
Wow, what a huge difference.
Boom! Even bigger difference than I expected.
I wonder if your China belts are polyester or nylon core instead of fiberglass.
More proof that you get what you pay for.
I guess the china version use a low quality material to reduce their price
Do you have to change pulleys or simply the belts?
I guess you have just accidentally used more tension on the new belt?
A cross test would be a good idea. Together with a tension measurement device.
Tension is like recommended for GT3 2M. The other one was tensioned like a GT2 2M should. But is was no GT2 2M. Measured with acustic measurement app “tension2go”
If people refuse to believe belt quality matters, you could use one genuine belt and one China belt at the same time and show the adjacent corners on the print. (Would need to be rotated 45 degrees to the gantry of course.)
Naaa, I don’t care that much. I can show results, explain the way I did it and still half the people just don’t trust. They know it better bc they don’t like it to be true. Thats the way Trump happened 
On the other side, I know of 4 very experienced people who bought a GT3 belt yesterday bc of my results. They are going to tell me, if they got similar results. That is more proof than all I can ever do for the non-believers
I bet both were made in China anyway, but have you tried the white PU ones with steel core, they are very rigid compared to other ones…
It’d be interesting to see how the steel core belts compare. Just had the only rubber/fiber (or whatever it is) belt (other 3 are steel core) break last night. Guess my printing fun is done until next week sometime 
missing/deleted image from Google+
@Rene_Jurack
It’s not a question about believing or trust or something similar. It’s a question about science, physics and so on. And nowhere in the real scientific world someone will believe your results if you didn’t make a cross test. Or some other ways to prove your results.
Please don’t get me wrong. I don’t say that you lie or that I don’t trust you. But I also don’t say that I “just” trust your results. How can I trust you or not. I don’t know your and the way you work!
I’m always skeptic It’s even worse if I make something 
But what I know is the accepted working range for GT2 belts. It’s written in their specification. And I know the properties of the used material. And usually almost every printer is far away from stressing the belts so much that a significant amount of stretching will happen.
And by the way, I know these apps to “measure” the belt tension. Forget them, they are useless
@Sven_Eric_Nielsen if the cheap China belts are using polyester yarn instead of fiberglass, it would explain this much stretch.
