Hey guys… Im looking for a little help converting over to a power supply with a different pinout. I think I have most of them but really confused with a few and the fact that the one Im putting in has an extra pin doesnt help lol…
The top (blue) is the bad ps coming out and the bottom (red) is the one I need to wire in.
what models are those LPSU’s?
argh… schematics make me dizzy lol…
No model on the red one other than hy40 on the flyback.
Will have to take the cover off the blue one in a bit to see if anything else to identify on that, but it is from one of the newer style k40s with the digital panel and wheels.
Like I said, Im pretty sure Ive got most matched up correctly its that 7-10 that really has me boggled.
I got the blue one in a non-digital machine. I was poking around in it with a multimeter the other day. So these are my findings.
1 From Ammeter (ground I suppose, didn’t check)
2 Main Ground (chassis)
3-4 Main Input (from power switch)
Panel Controls:
5 Gnd. to Laser Enable Switch
6 Return from Laser Enable Switch (inline with door safety interlock)
7 From Test Fire Button
8 Gnd. to Test Button and Pot
9-10 Pot
To Control Board:
11: 24v (to steppers, I suppose)
12: Gnd.
13: 5v (powers control board)
14: I assume this is how the board enables the laser? It read 4.8v without the laser running.
Does that help you any? I can actually look at the connections on the pot if you need.
@Frank_Dart Go here:
The pin outs of most supplies are in that post. Let me know if your need more help.
Is your other supply dead? I am collecting and analyzing the cause of dead LPS’s for the community. If you want to donate it to the failure testing project I am happy to take it off your hands :).
Yes pon 14 called L fires the laser when pulled to the ground.
@Madyn3D_CNC_LLC i noticed your picture. Just for you fun facts. The flyback holds a charge because there is a capacitor potted in that assy along with a voltage multiplier :).
You guys are great!!! Hopefully get it wired up tomorrow night… @donkjr its dead and 99.9% sure its the flyback. Once this ps is in and hopefully working, Im going to order the flyback for the dead one as a backup. If it turns out this one doesnt work, Im just going to order a new ps and hold off for a bit on getting the flyback… money is a bit tight until that tax check comes in.
But if this one doesnt work, I’ll gladly send it over to you as well as the blue one if it turns out not to be the flyback.
And I know your gonna warn me anyway, but yes I’m aware of the danger with the flybacks 
@Frank_Dart I was about to type “be careful” …and you beat me to it. Do you have fly-back sources?
@Frank_Dart i get worried when you tell us that you’re ordering multipe ps. @donkjr is investigating the issue and hopefully you don’t have to order new ones ever when he gets to the root of this ill designed ps. It just needs som tlc and we should not encourage bad products to prosper but opt for sustainable products that last.
@donkjr lol… I had already found one for $30 and as luck would have it… its the same exact one you have linked on your site!
@Paul_de_Groot no worries here… the ps im putting in now is a 2nd hand from one of the fb group I picked up on the cheap that I picked up when I first started my battle with the ebay seller (Amonstar and their aliases should be renamed A Monster)… So knowing this one is used and from an older model, I really dont expect it to last an extended amount of time, but since I already have it why not. It should at least last until the slow boat delivers the flyback for my original ps and I certainly think its worth the $30 risk to fix it if I already have a working one.
If this old one doesnt work I dont want to spend money and wait a month for the fb and have nothing in the meantime, so if thats the case I would rather spend $90 and get a working new one in two days.
TLDR - I am trying hard to balance!
@Frank_Dart I don’t know how valid this flyback test is as I’m not exactly sure what’s in the poting. I think it’s a cap and diode multiplier. Give this a try.
Get a 12 v supply the beefier the better.
On the HV secondary:
Position the gnd lead ( this is different by supply type) near (1/8 inch) the HV lead. I taped them to the table.
On the primary, sometimes this is wire sometimes this is bolts, connect one side to the gnd on the 12v supply.
Intermittently touch the +12v to the other side of the primary.
The secondary should arc to ground.
This would probably not arc if there is a bad short, but not sure about just a few windings.
Try it and let me know.
Hi Don, thank you! I learned after the fact that it only holds the charge when in line with the caps, and with the dangers of removing flybacks from old CCTV’s I was under the impression that the coils in flyback can hold charge. That’s actually something I learned in this group a little while back.
@donkjr Hoping you can weigh in and help me out the rest of the way here…
The pic was marked out by someone on FB and is how I wired it up, but this is either not right or this PS has issues of its own.
As soon as it gets power turned on, the test light switch lights up. Nothing happening on the tube as far as I can see, but for all I know, the tube could have been killed with the old supply.
I went over your site and found the one link with the comparison of the different PS and am even more confused as my 1-4 (red supply)pins are slightly different, and am I wrong in thinking that 5 pin (red supply) should have something connected?
Definitely time for a pizza break…
@Frank_Dart its late I will look at this tomorrow for you … this is a K40 right?
It is indeed… and thanks again! Im about to crash out myself. I’m thinking the the wire from the 7. on top should really be going to 5. K+ on the bottom? And if so do I need to bridge k- to one of the other grounds?