Hi guys, if you could offer some advice, I’d appreciate it.
I have two printers a Duplicator i3, and a generic reprap, and both basically have the same problem. While both print well with pla and ABS, I’m having a hard time dialing in PETg.
I have a 2 rolls of white Inland brand (generic) filament from Microcenter. Printing on a 75 degree bed with nozzle temp set at 240. Printing on PEI base over glass.
Print adhesion is terrible, and parts aften come loose causing a mess. Also when laying down tracks I get a lot of lifted strings which I think get caught in movement contrinuting to the parts coming loose.
Printing rafts isn’t desirable, and frankly a print WITH raft this morning also came loose.
I have no experience with PETg but your description sounds like you are printing too cold. use a bed temperature of 110°C and put nozzle temp up to 250°C.
I kind of had this problem recently with PLA/PHA I just had to make sure I was laying down enough filament for my first layer. I was actually printing too thin, until I did a couple cold pulls. Hope this helps.
I have had zero adhesion failures with eSun PETG on aquanet on glass at 70⁰ or 75⁰. I had substantial adhesion failures with the same filament on the same printer when printing on blue or white tape. Haven’t tried PEI yet, and as long as aquanet works well, probably won’t bother.
If your bed isn’t flat, or your Z min endstop is not calibrated correctly, you might be over-extruding slightly, in which case your nozzle might be dragging across over-extruded edges of the bottom layer. If Z hop / lift Z resolves your issue, check those potential issues.
How odd, I was about to post the opposite problem! I just fitted a PEI sheet to my glass bed, printing HatchBox PETG @ 65C for the first layer then 45 C the prints stick too well. I’m ripping the prints trying to get them off the bed!
Inland brand PETg is pretty straight forward. Same temp as ABS, bed at 60-70 on clean glass or PEI. Don’t treat the glass with anything, it hurts more than it helps.
I print on binder-clipped glass sheets that I remove from the bed, and the parts pop off nicely as they cool because the glass and plastic have different coefficients of expansion.
Does anyone have any suggested nozzle or bed temperatures that work well for them? Also, in reading another question I notice that some answers related to the print speed and initial layer heights. Does anyone have any specific recommendation on these items too?
Actually I meant to say if I look at the average response it sounds like bed temperature of 60 to 75 degrees seems to be a good bed temp. That’s equal to or slightly lower than I’ve tried.
For those printing with inland PETG, what nozzle temp have you had success with?
do you have any recommendation on first layer heights or print speed, or any other tweaks you made to get this to work
I have run over 15kg of inland/Esun PETG. Best performance I have found is 70C bed, 260C hotend (e3dv6), no bed treatment coating (but I use PEI). 50mm/s+ print speeds.
I use GE transfer film 438?. It is a piece of plastic with a glue base. It sticks bery well. I found a large roll for nearly free at a junk exchange place. I wouldn’t use it on your setups unless you can put down a new piece of glass.
I even saw hictop selling some of it on Amazon .
But, i have not tested polyethylene. … i would be surprised if it didn’t stick
Well, I tested it and the winner is… 260 with bed at 90 I’ll also try 80 next. Both my printers use Melzi boards and have a hard time holding temps. Next stop - some calibration tricks and at least in one case to switch to a fastbot bbp1s controller and the other one a ramps 1.4 setup.
