I’ve been playing with printed-in-place parts that break loose and have moving sections after printing (no assembly- printed as is). After calibrating the filament to get good dimensional accuracy, I’ve had some good success! I made a roller bearing wheel, a spring-loaded chip clip dinosaur, and a rotating spinner. All seem to work well! I love this printer.
@Daniel_Jackman …what printer are you using???
@Fook_INGSOC I have a Reliabuild3D RB2. Check them out at http://www.reliabuild3D.com. The RB3 on this site is comparable to what I’m using now, but it has a lot of improvements on the design. http://www.reliabuild3D.com
Awesome.
@1111161 I have a Reliabuild3D RB2. Check them out at http://www.reliabuild3D.com. The RB3 on this site is comparable to what I’m using now, but it has a lot of improvements on the design.
@Daniel_Jackman please delete the Patti reckard spam drivel! Thanks!
@Fook_INGSOC I’m confused. I don’t see that.
@Daniel_Jackman I don’t see it now anymore either!!! Weird!..glitch in the matrix I guess! Sorry to bother you! 
Nicely done! Print in place assemblies come out really nice on these machines.
Is this a merit of machine calibration or is it the filament type?
I don’t see this happening here with th PLA I use.
Or maybe I’m printing too hot for this kind of results???
@Andre_Frazatto It’s actually more a merit of calibrating the filament to the machine (and of course having a good rigid machine). Every time I get a new roll of filament, I run a few quick calibration pieces to determine the correct filament diameter and temperature settings for THAT roll. I’ve used a few different brands (Fugetek, 3DSolutech, Hatchbox, Vortex 3DP) and have been able to achieve similar results. This is a link to the calibration piece I use, and another link for how to interpret the results and make adjustments.
https://reliabuild3d.com/instructions/
@Andre_Frazatto I also have a pretty good part cooling fan that drastically improves results. If you don’t have one, you should look into it for your printer.
@Daniel_Jackman here’s a 12v blower fan I got out of a copy machine fuser from work…it is roughly the size of a stepper motor!
@Fook_INGSOC very nice. I have a nozzle on my part can that directs air just under the tip of my extruder. Works really well. My might have to design something similar for that fan. I bet that fan will run forever!
@Fook_INGSOC
I thought some of those fans, were stepper motors.
No?
@mark_warlick not stepper. Black=negative, red=positive & I believe yellow is tach feedback!
@Daniel_Jackman they run at least for 300,000 copies in the fuser of a kyocera copy machine! perfect size for a hotend! Very low mass!
@Daniel_Jackman I was reluctant to try another calibration session, but I got good results after trying your suggested piece just a couple of times.
But…
I’m still getting a lot of over extrusion on very small surface areas. If I try to lower it further, it start getting under extrusion on the rest of the print.
And support material (using Slic3r) is still very difficult to take out.
I’m thinking it may just be lack of pressure and if I increase DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE on Marlin I could lower the Extrusion Multiplier a little more.
Am I on the write direction here?
@Andre_Frazatto I think it would be good to get @Jeff_Parish ’s advice on this. He’s excellent at those kinds of settings changes.