Testing 0.2mm nozzle.
Nice, so is 0.2 mm is the smallest nozzle?
@Harith_Slay Think you can get 0.15mm.
What printer did you use, that is pretty insane detail at that size?
@Jan_erik_Halvorsen oh OK.
Can you provide a little detail about the nozzle, heaterblock, cooling and material (PLA?) used? Consider me a comrade in printing little things 
Nice! What is the difference in time for prints if any between a .2 and .4
@Rene_Jurack Pla 180C DIY Extruder/hotend and nozzle.
Link to Extruder/hotend:
https://plus.google.com/+JanerikHalvorsen0047/posts/CvRAr3BtLVE
I have a pair of 0.15mm nozzles from E3D 
@Rene_Jurack they work with the standard hotends, but require a geared extruder and specialty materials to work well.
@Matthew_Del_Rosso assuming linear print speed stays the same, it would be around a factor of 4 (from 0.4mm to 0.2mm) considering that both layer height and extrusion width get halved.
@Thomas_Sanladerer thanks.
@Jan_Erik_Halvorsen1 Nice DIY!!! You really did it all! The Shape of the nozzle looks a little bit similar to mine 
At least the end of it…
@Thomas_Sanladerer I pushed filament through a bowden through a 0.2mm nozzle with a plain printed direct-extruder and a little higher temps than usual. Nothing geared needed…
Only reason I am not printing with 0.2mm nozzle: Prints take ages to complete.
@Rene_Jurack according to E3D, the 0.15mm one behaves significantly differently from standard sizes when it comes to the details of the polymer flow. WRT geared/bowden, i believe the length of bowden tubing smoothes out stepper resolution and microstepping inaccuracies quite a bit (acting as a long spring), resulting in a more consistent flow, but less control when compared to non-bowden setups. I can even see extruder steps in the print with a 0.4mm nozzle on some non-bowden setups.
AFAIK all the nozzles of E3D have the same inner nozzle-shape, just a different bore at the end. And look at @Jan_erik_Halvorsen and mine nozzle, they are far more “pointed” (de: spitz) and have a longer and steadier constantly thinning down filament path. E3D ones have “steps” to get the compression/pressure high till the end (like you do in every flow setting)
@Rene_Jurack : I actually belive that E3D changed their geometry to a single 60 degree end bore rather than the two-step 118(?) degree bore they used earlier for most nozzles a year or two ago, and the 0.15mm one does have that internal shape according to the website.
This is listed as “current drawing” on the wiki: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/images/3/3a/V6-NOZZLE-ALL.pdf
So they do indeed now use a single taper.
ah, ok. nice to see. Still dont like the big flat tip 
@Rene_Jurack , what the tests i have been doing (together with Anders Olsson and a bunch of other people) has shown is that a larger shoulder usually gives better (flatter) results at top surfaces, but a smaller shoulder gives better overhang performance, so it is really a compromise you have to make between the both.
We have been testing this quite a lot in the making of “The Olsson Ruby” nozzle, and we decided on a shoulder quite a bit smaller than the E3D 0.4mm nozzle, since we found that compromise to be most to our (and our testers) liking.
In the Pic: print with 0,2mm nozzle. Without the big flat tip 
The problem with the big tip I have is: The amount of heat it can transfer into the print when printing a very small one like @Jan_erik_Halvorsen shows of here. If you do “common 0.4 nozzle prints in normal size”, the flat tip probably works good as an alrounder like you said 
Yes i can absolutely see why a nozzle that brings the radiating body further away from the print and a smaller shoulder area is very beneficial when printing in micro-scale and keeping the hotend in the same area for a much longer time than on a normal scale print 