Update:
Ok so I finally got the part off. I made the bed cold with ice packs and bought a different razor that came with a handle. I slowly worked my way around the part but as it came up, it ripped a chunk out of the surface… So the parts off and looks great but the surface on my bed is ruined… Guess I’ll go back to glass. I liked how it worked on my old printer anyway.
Help! I’ve fallen and I can’t get up! I mean… My print is stuck! I can’t get this thing off! I’ve tried razors, some physical persuasion and whatever else I can think of. How do I get this off the build plate? I can’t get a razor blade under it, at all… I’ve tried and tried. IDK what the printing surface is made out if (it came with my E10) but it’s stuck to an aluminum bed. The part is made out of PLA. Any other suggestions would be great. I don’t really want to take stuff apart if possible. I JUST got everything level and working properly.
isopropanol - will lift this due to its capillary action… so after some drops wait a minute (assuming the bed is cold) and using a shock is more importand than force. So a short impulse works better and could be absorbed by the mass of the bed. Also you could use a pipe wrench to press the part a little … this will loosen it from the ground – do not apply force onto the bed.
That looks like BuildTak. I had similar issues with it when I started using it. The root cause is that your first layer is too close to the bed and it sticks like nothing I have seen. I had to throw away the surface and start again. Lucky it is just a film with somewhat strong adhesive.
Don’t the buildtak ppl recommend to reheat the bed?
Found it:
This can happen when the extruder nozzle is too close to the BuildTak sheet. Try increasing the nozzle height slightly and make sure the print bed is level. Make sure you run a test print. When printing with ABS, try to remove the builds immediately after completion, reheating the heated print bed (for ABS) will also help to release larger builds that are sticking too well. Please note, a heated bed is not required for printing with PLA or removing parts printed with PLA.
Isopropyl at the edge to wick under, then one of those air canisters upside down to freeze at the edge. Might take a cycle or two. But differential heating is your friend.
@MidnightVisions it’s an aluminum bed but it has some kind of 3M sticker for a printing surface. I’m not sure what it is but it kinda feels like a rough plastic.
@Ernesto_Martinez I’ve thought about buying some glass. My last printer had glass and I liked the way that worked. Parts would “pop” off. This black sheet is too good at holding parts…
@Eclsnowman my old printer had a glass bed and as it would cool, the parts would pop off. It seems this aluminum plate doesn’t work the same way. I’m considering purchasing a glass plate for this printer as well.
Some people have recommended spatulas; I use palette knives (you can get them at art supply stores for a couple of bucks). The knives are thinner than spatulas, flexible, and yet strong. My favorite is the Liquitex Small Painting Knife #3:
A shock from the side, at bed level, with the tool pointing slightly, but only slightly, into the bed surface is your best bet. I use this, tapped with a smallish pipe wrench (I know, sounds dodgy, but it’s lighter than a hammer so ensures I don’t get too carried away
I’ve got a spreader that I’ve sharpened with a Dremel, watch fingers though, when the piece releases it will stop at the next available thing which in my case is a thumb or a finger.
