Well youll need to improve them e3d. They come lose on one side and bits over the nozzle get torn down. With the heatercables sticking out I cant really fix them (and that would not be the purpose).
Didn’t you have a post about making your own, well similar? Yep there it is, any luck?
@Jeremiah_Coley yes i had that post and naw gave it up when I saw these. Dont know why they fail. They do improve printing well actually. They are in use for about four weeks or so.
I don’t have an e3d, but I use ceramic tape and kapton.
I have one on my lulzbot mini, and I had to cut it up for the endstop wire. It barely hangs on, and almost falls off during the cleaning routine. Now I realize that the modifications I made are mostly at fault, but it was pretty flimsy and loose to start with.
I’m probably going to make my own, one that’ll envelop the block.
I wonder if it would be better to dip the block and tip in some type of coating? Or does that even exist?
@Alex_Skoruppa well the new heaterblock is rather awesome. But the socks arent. They will fix it I believe
@Craig_Insane_Cheese ceramic might be ok. But the main reason i use it is because of pet sticking to the heaterblock. With kapton this wont reduce the problem ;D
@Alex_Skoruppa yes but it wont crack that fast. You will see cheaper alternatives on ebay soon 
It’s having some adverse affects on my Kossel Mini. In practice so little of the nozzle protrudes (basically none of it) that the sock/boot rubs on the layer being printed, slightly. This isn’t helped by the tabs being, I suspect, ever so slightly too long so that the sock hangs down very, very slightly.
So I’m finding that the top layers of a small (say 15mm diameter) shape aren’t dragging over the fill properly – the sock causes the hot filament to instead work its way into the fill honeycomb – it needs about five top layers to sort itself out – which is about three more than without the sock.
I’ve made the nozzle-hole larger, so more of the nozzle protrudes and I’ll see if that fixes it.
I really want this to work as it’ll stop bits of carbon dropping onto my print jobs, which can be very annoying!
Trim the tabs off and wrap the top with a but of wire? Just throwing ideas 
Anyone know off hand how much heat a standard cable-tie can take?
OK – to answer my own question – not enough (they’re usually nylon?).
The bag I acquired from work says they are good to 85 degrees C. Nylon 6.6
Anyone know if standard silicone sealant would take the heat? The kind you may use to seal the edges of baths, sinks etc – but the proper, relatively expensive proper silicon stuff, not the cheaper sealant that’s sold for the same job.
Because if so, couldn’t we just apply a thin layer of that on the heater block and the wider part of the nozzle? Would that stop filament from sticking and also stop carbon buildup from dropping onto the print?
@Mark_Wheadon no it wont work. But there is high temp silicone on ebay which works. But you wont get that off anytime. Use this:
missing/deleted image from Google+
I have been using silicone tape to wrap my heater block. Bought from home depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-and-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-in-Clear-1210364/203534911). i did order some of the E3D socks and based on the comments here: i plan to cut a larger hole for the nozzle and still use the tape to secure the top of the sock to the block. And of course i have been working on my own version of the silicone sock,
You could also just use a small wire and twist the ends to get it to hold in place better
I have used this blue silicon to make small part casting molds. If I recall correctly it is the cheapest silicon molding 2 part compound (why I used it in design school). I think the issue is that it is possibly Tin based silicone.
Read more here:
http://www.daleykreations.com/faqs/what-is-the-difference-between-platinum-and-tin-based-silicones
Platinum silicone, which I think is usually clear in color, would likely do much better. It has less issues with becoming brittle and falling apart, and resists heat more. The heating and cooling of the hotend is going to decrease the ‘library life’ of the molded silicone hotend boot, making weeks or months equal years in my estimation. Could be wrong though, but just got a genuine E3D with one of these boots so I guess I will find out 
http://www.daleykreations.com/faqs/what-is-the-difference-between-platinum-and-tin-based-silicones